Study Finds Traces of Banned Chinese Cotton in 19% of U.S. Retail Merchandise

A recent study has revealed that 19% of merchandise sold at U.S. retailers in the past year contained traces of banned Chinese cotton. The findings shed light on the difficulties in adhering to U.S. laws aimed at preventing imports of cotton associated with forced labor in China.

The study, conducted by natural resource analytics firm Stratum Reservoir and isotope testing firm Applied DNA Sciences, involved the analysis of garment samples, cotton swabs, and shoes from major U.S. retail chains and e-commerce platforms that import goods into the country. The retailers involved in the study were not disclosed.

Technological Analysis

The researchers utilized isotopic testing, a method capable of identifying the geographic origin of cotton by examining the concentration of stable elements such as carbon and hydrogen present in both the crop and its growing environment. This advanced technology allowed them to detect traces of cotton from Xinjiang, the far western region of China.

U.S. Legislation and Global Supply Chain Implications

Since 2021, the U.S. has implemented laws to protect its market from products potentially linked to human rights violations in Xinjiang, where the U.S. government has accused China of committing genocide against Uyghur Muslims. Despite China's denial of the alleged abuses, Xinjiang remains a significant cotton producer and a key supplier of materials for solar panels worldwide.

Challenges and Global Impact

Efforts to eliminate goods produced with forced labor from the U.S. supply chain have been ongoing for years. However, the study's findings indicate that the effectiveness of the new law is in question. A 2022 federal report estimated that Xinjiang cotton accounted for approximately 87% of China's production and 23% of the global supply in 2020 and 2021. Furthermore, countries such as Vietnam, Cambodia, and Bangladesh, which are among the largest producers of cotton clothing and consumer goods, continue to import significant quantities of finished fabric from China, which eventually finds its way to the U.S. through apparel manufactured by suppliers in those countries.

The researchers examined 822 products and found that 19% of them contained traces of Xinjiang cotton. The study was conducted over a period from February 2023 to March 2024.

Origin Misrepresentation

Notably, 57% of the items testing positive for Xinjiang cotton were labeled as being solely of U.S. origin, according to the researchers.

Additionally, two-thirds of the items that tested positive for Xinjiang cotton showed evidence of the cotton being blended with materials from regions outside of Xinjiang.